Copenhagen Fashion Week Spring/Summer ‘24 Recap
Design: Nupoor Phadke
While many acclaimed fashion houses and figures are still learning how to adapt to the world’s cry for sustainability, the call for action is a mere cakewalk for the designers of Copenhagen. Known for its minimal and intricate Scandi style, Copenhagen’s fashion scene is renowned for its dedication to producing timeless garments through environmentally-conscious practices.
The grand notion for SS24 Copenhagen Fashion Week was to flip Scandi fashion on its back, reimagining it from a novel perspective in lieu of the popular. More than half of each brand’s pieces were made from recycled materials under the event’s strict sustainability standards, which were set in 2020, showing how embracing Copenhagen is to the future of fashion.
From layers to bright colors and amusing styling, here is a recap of the week’s most outstanding brands and collections.
A. Roege Hove
A. Roege Hove is known for its unique take on knitwear, showing off asymmetric seams and folds, striking cutouts, and billowing necklines. The show featured 24 captivatingly bizarre looks. Models strutted down the catwalk in skin-baring tops and mid-length skirts made with a thin, flowy mesh fabric. Thicker knits gave visual interest through their ribbed weaves and accordion pleats, hugging every curve in the most flattering way while enhancing the shape of the body. The collection’s colors stayed true to the minimal quality of Scandinavian style, ranging between hues of black, gray, white and pastel pink, with the exception of some bright orange and lime-green pieces.
Gestuz
Inspired by ancient marble statues and the bold attitude of women in the rock and roll scene, Gestuz masterfully juxtaposed the drapes and gowns of the distant past with audacious accessories and styling. The dresses and bottoms flowed with every model’s step, reminiscent of the elongating silhouettes and soft colors of old-time Greece. The punk elements were heavily incorporated in its denim and leather outerwear, jewelry, and grommet belts, all of which were decked with overwhelmingly large shoulder pads, loud stripes, and punk-styled silver embellishments.
Helmstedt
Eclectic, whimsical, and youthful. The Helmstedt show was a pure psychedelic, summer spectacle from its first look to its very last. Copanhagen’s promise of sustainability was interpreted through a fantastical interpretation of nature in clothing. Many pieces incorporated printed fabrics adorned with clouds, strawberries, and paint strokes. Any garment that wasn’t sporting the graphic textiles was mindfully detailed in alternative ways, including embroideries of nature, bold ruffles, bags made of colorful beads, and quilted coats with novel sleeves and waistlines.
Mark Kenly Domino Tan
Creative director Caroline Engelgaar drew inspiration from the ocean and its jewels for the Mark Kenly Domino Tan show, playing with the loose style of every garment and accessorizing with opulent pearls. Every step allowed the clothing to sway with grace, mimicking the rolling waves of the sea. While nautical at its core, the Scandinavian vintage elements were apparent as ever through their resemblance to traditional folk dresses. Even the colors thoughtfully interpreted the two concepts, using fabrics in hues of black, white, neutral browns and blues, taking after the colors of the shore and modern Scandi fashion today.
Rotate
Their mission was to achieve punk royal chic, and they nailed it. Co-founders Jeanette Madsen and Thora Valdimars merged two antithetical styles into a reimagined party collection that embodies the beauty in polarization. The punk element was displayed through the incorporation of vinyl, tattered denim, chain detailing, and that gaudy, fearless styling. Royalty was achieved through attentive design: the usage of tulle, which bloomed from the models’ hats and bags; lace and sheer fabrics for their form-fitting pieces; bejeweled skirts, dresses, and lingerie; and curtain-tassel-styled mini bras and nipple stickers! The corset collection interprets corsets from old-time European royalty to its revival in popular fashion. The idea is to highlight rebels who love to revel, and this assemblage does not fall short of that notion in the slightest.
View our picks below.
A. Roege Hove
Sexy knitwear designed to show off the frame rather than to hide it. From wool to sheer fabrics, every piece can be layered for everyday wear and nighttime ventures.
Gestuz
Grunge meets ocean goddess in this collection of disruption. Consider mixing the clothing with casual pieces for a balanced look with visual interest, or bask in the boldness by adding more maximalist elements.
Helmstedt
It’s everything mystical about the natural world, a collection that came straight from a dream. While it’s not the best brand for capsule wardrobes, one or two staple pieces won’t hurt too badly.
Mark Kenly Domino Tan
A refined collection boasting quality craftsmanship, Mark Kenly Domino Tan produces pieces that are meant to last for a lifetime. They are minimal with their colors, but loud in design.
Rotate
A closet for the misfits of the world, Rotate shows how hard punk details can surprisingly complement the glitz-and-glam of high fashion.
Ganni
The animal-printed sets and experimental denim embodies of party life in this 2000s-inspired collection. Every piece is extraordinary in color, silhouette, and cut, making Ganni a must-have designer to incorporate into your nightlife wardrobe.
Deadwood
Deadwood takes on gothic fashion for the week through the lens of future dystopia. If you’re a lover of leather, then this collection is the one for you.
Kernemilk
If sustainable innovation was a brand, then it would be Kernemilk. Garments embody quaint imperfection, while still being comfortable to wear.
P. L. N.
If the parachute trend is something that you gravitate towards, then this P.L.N. assemblage is the wardrobe for you! The clothing modifies the body to present silhouettes that are larger than life—something alluringly alien.
Saks Potts
Inspired by Copenhagen’s fresh scenery, Saks Potts produces a series of practical clothing in saturated colors and shiny textiles. As one of the more tamer collections of the week, every piece is designed for frolicking under the sun.
