Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2021 Recap
Burberry
Burberry is a well-known global luxury brand, headquartered in London, UK. Burberry’s Spring/Summer 2021 collection named ‘In Bloom’ was fashioned by Chief Creative Officer Riccardo Tisci, along with inviting the internationally acclaimed artist Anne Imhof to collaborate. Riccardo focuses on the idea of how elements move and evoke emotion. Riccardo has curated a unique show experience – a play of aesthetics, ideologies and tensions.
He presents a modern mythology, a contemporary tale that takes place at sea, the love story that blossoms between a mermaid and a shark. His biggest inspiration was the fact that the sea is a powerful element that expresses the idea of romance, and beauty. It helps reflect a multifaceted view of Britain – simultaneously rural and urban, spanning earth and ocean, a way of always expressing freedom. This collection is specifically a dialogue between two different worlds and how they collide into one, therefore, creating a blend between fashion and nature, utility and romance.
The color palette and the prints used are sharply focused on blue tones, in order to create an ocean panorama effect along with a blend on Sandy Burberry Beige, and Mariner Orange. Portholes, based on the handle of Burberry’s new signature the Pocket Bag, has been featured across accessories and garments, opening windows onto different layers.
Ulla Johnson
Ulla Johnson’s collection was set against the Roosevelt Island’s Four Freedom Park in New York City. Here, the designer debuted a dynamic assortment of outdoor runway garments. When creating this collection, Johnson wanted to focus on the idea of ‘Togetherness’. She mentions, “For me, the takeaway from everything is we all need to be much more public facing. We need to be speaking to not just this small group of insiders, but to announce things much more and to bring people into that experience of runway”.
Johnson was able to mimic this idea and feeling through her clothing line, where she offers a full ready-to-wear collection. Originally planning to travel to Japan during March, she interpreted some of the Japanese techniques and used it as an inspiration which is represented in a modernized manner. The designer uses various prints such as Shibori, graphic handlooms and boro patchwork. Moreover, she was inspired by the techniques from different cultures such as, using linen lace frocks from India, graphic crochets knitwear from Peru and handwoven headpieces from Paris.
The garments in this collection offer both a sculptural yet relaxed silhouette, however she deliberately planned on not using pretty, pink and girly colors. The idea of fluidity was offset by utilitarian offerings in a contrasting color such as monochromatic khaki pleated blouse and skirt set.
LaQuan Smith
This seasons collection was inspired by the car culture of the 70’s where Smith was inspired and obsessed with pastel Cadillacs that signified wealth via their outré customizations.
He mentions, “I was obsessed with the concept and started finding these vintage Cadillacs in baby blue and ice mint. I drew from the testimonies of my grandfather, who told us that back in the day in Brooklyn, he had a baby blue Caddy and dyed his poodle to match!”
He was drastically influenced by the ideas of ‘New Money’ and its attachment – Champagne, leather seats, and extravagantly dressed lifestyle. Smith used this inspiration and therefore kept all elements of this collection flashing and automobile focused (to draw back attention to the 70’s). This season’s garments were considered very flirty, as it consisted of elements such as latex jeans, draped silk blouses, high-gloss catsuits, bustier gowns and many more.
“One of the fun things about what I do is that it is pushing those boundaries about what it means to be sexy,” says Smith. “There is a fine line, but when I’m designing these gowns, I’m thinking about a classic era in the most sensual way. You put that dress on, and it’s going to make you feel beautiful and sexy.”
Snow Xue Gao
Snow Xue Gao’s collection revolves around the topic of the current pandemic. One of the most significant changes due to Covid was the Work from Home (WFH) revolution that began, which not only changed the state of how we work, but also the way we dress. Her goal was to accommodate customers’ needs and desire for comfort, but at the same time focus on looking stylish and chic.
Her spring collection includes both WFH outfits including dresses, suits and lounge wear (giving the feel of relaxation). To add on to this collection, with the encouragement of her buyers, she’s added a whole new category to her offerings: pajamas. She uses various types of fabric and prints to create this entire look, varying from plaid to florals to even checks. For example, she designed a blazer that is half tailored to be checks and the other half to be floral Kimono inspired. The designer said she wanted to make a collection that created happiness, expressed ease, and responded to people’s needs, and she was successful in doing so.