2021 New York Fashion Week Recap
Source: Ulla Johnson
Adopting a hybrid format of digital and in-person runway shows, the 2021 NYFW in September was a spectacular lineup of designers. There was a major focus on social justice issues, and several artists, such as Rooftop and Kim Shui, used their pieces to make a commentary on their feelings about the tensions circulating in the US and the world at large. With gorgeous settings like Collina Strada’s outdoor garden show, or Sienna Li’s stark backdrop for her flowing gowns, it is clear that the designers were excited to be returning to audiences. This year featured model inclusivity, not only in body type and size but also in age and gender, along with creative pairings to make certain pieces stand out. We list below some of our must-know shows, and help you find the pieces you loved seeing!
Advisry Season 7
Keith Herron, also known as Rooftop, has been making clothes since he was 13. Now in his early 20s, Rooftop’s collections and his young age continue to impress. Advisry is a multimedia brand, producing not only garments, but several hours of films, music, and more. For NYFW, Advisry put out a 17-minute film called “Sometimes Dancing: A NYFW Presentation.”
The gorgeously shot film begins with a couple, decked out in stylish Advisry gear, of course, goofing off in a grocery store. Rooftop wanted this movie and collection to show “Black joy, specifically in the face of the consistent day to day struggle,” and the strength in being able to be joyful “in the midst of chaos.” More than just a collection of clothing, “Sometimes Dancing” is an experience that cannot be missed.
Kim Shui Spring 22
Challenging the stereotypical Western view on the East, Kim Shui wanted to flip the perspective with her new collection, and show what a stereotypical Western world can look like through her eyes. The cowboy boots with dragon embroidery and snakeskin? Incredible. However, the goal wasn’t only to dazzle audiences with her ingenuity.
Shui was rightfully angered and alarmed by the hate towards the Asian American and Asian community over the past year of the pandemic. She was also frustrated with the fashion world’s constant habit of neglecting Asian women’s talent and beauty and channeled those feelings into her NYFW show. She crafted a celebration of Asian creativity and support, all while throwing in elements of Y2K fashion and traditional Chinese outfits.
To close her show, Shui said, “I don’t want to finger-point, but Asian women must be included in conversations about diversity. What we face is something a little bit different, and that made me feel like I need to say something about it.”
Collina Strada Spring 22
There has always been a trademark playful vibrancy to Collina Strada’s clothing, and this Spring 2022 collection did not disappoint. Designer Hillary Taymour brought outlandish shapes, chunky shoes, and creative layering to the table during this show.
Collina Strada has been striving to become fully sustainable and completely transparent about its practices, while still remaining fun and youthful, showing that one can bring issues to the center stage without sacrificing their craft.
Highlights of the show: sweet pairings walking down the cobblestone runway, the lush hues and floral prints, and the almost amphibious aesthetic of some of the matching sets. When looking at the outfits Taymour has put together, it is easy to dismiss it as cluttered and busy, but the true beauty lies in the quality and creativity behind each individual piece. Taymour has never shied away from billowing fabric or unconventional fits, and prioritizes being expressive and bold, making this sunlit show a sheer joy to watch.
Mia Vesper SS22
Mia Vesper, the designer behind her eponymous clothing brand, has come far from when she started upcycling vintage tapestries in 2017. Her motorcycle jackets and trench coats made from blankets and rugs still made some dazzling appearances in her SS22 show, but they were accompanied by equally impressive unisex suits, dresses, and cowboy boots.
Worn by Beyoncé, Sofia Richie, and more, Vesper has stayed true to her eye-catching prints and form-flattering silhouettes. She once said, “I always let the textile tell me what it wants to do, and then I kind of work from there.” That practice rings true in the looks from her NYFW show. When seeing the almost sheer fabric that looks like it is an art piece by itself, it is almost impossible to imagine it in any other form besides the dress Vesper presents to us. The lengths of fabric hanging from the hips and the ruched gathering provides an air of glamour and femininity.
Vesper also showcased a focus on gender neutral clothing, able to be worn by anyone and everyone who wants to stand out in a crowd. The sturdy cowboy boots paired with delicate slacks and work shirts created a brilliant dichotomy between the pieces that elevated them both, instead of feeling forced together. This ingenuity is exactly what keeps us coming back to Mia Vesper’s work, and admiring it every time.
Sienna Li SS22
To describe Sienna Li’s show in one word: ethereal. Her collection, aptly titled "Dryad” after the name of forest nymphs in Greek mythology, evokes the ease and beauty found in the majestic nature around us. Li was inspired by an ancient, gnarled tree with winding roots, and dedicated over a hundred hours to make a dress that did that tree justice.
Her use of hues is like watercolors, subtle yet impactful when layered, especially when the hand-sculpted organza cascades down the body of the dress. One is reminded of the scent of blooming flowers, the tinkling sound of running water, and how it feels to see the first sun-dappled leaves of spring.
A standout moment is her sea-foam green dress, draped in veined leaves and ruffles that are reminiscent of bark curling around a trunk, undoubtedly affirming Li’s dedication and genius towards her vision.
Shop our picks below.
Mia Vesper
Unisex Bluejay Boot
These cowboy boots are what everybody has been needing. The color scheme can go with anything, and the toe design makes sure these go unnoticed, even under long pants.
Mia Vesper
Monet B Dress
For a date night or a brunch with your friends, this dress can do both effortlessly. The skillful draping takes this already watery fabric to the next level, creating ripples and curves in this wearable piece of art.
Mia Vesper
Vintage Mink Garden Moto
One of a kind and sustainable? Yes, please! The tough silhouette with the dramatically feminine rug pattern makes this moto gorgeously unisex and an absolute must-have.
Advisry
Crest Linen Shirt
Reminiscent of family crests and gargoyles, this button-up with offset prints is unprecedented streetwear at its best.
Advisry
Woven Sunflower Duffel
Not only is this the perfect size for a go-bag, but the canvas material makes it durable, while the painted sunflowers make it wearable and stylish.
Advisry
Burnt Orange Bowling Shirt
Who knew a bowling shirt could be so cool? The subtle front pockets, with the spotlight-looking pattern, give a retro feel to this timeless polo.
Collina Strada
Chick Flower Tank
This tank is a quintessential Collina Strada: a fresh, almost bizarre shape of a classic, high-necked shirt. Instead of ribbed cotton, this sky blue mesh with abstract lines evokes interest and playfulness.
Collina Strada
Meadowland Princess Bodysuit
The only proper reaction one would receive while wearing this: “Wow.” The hyperrealistic photo-like florals with the lacy quality of the bodysuit make this a drool-worthy outfit for the bold and the daring.
Collina Strada
Black Loopy 5 Pocket Jeans
These squiggly pants are fun, while still remaining versatile, with a flattering straight-leg cut.
Kim Shui
Dragon Blue Chaps
Kim Shui’s take on a pair of chaps turns a typically masculine, and almost absurd piece of clothing into a statement piece with the silvery dragon material and deep blue color scheme.
Kim Shui
Western Green Combo Pants
Are you kidding me with these? The slight shimmer paired with the iridescent blue, contrasted with the green snakeskin and classic Western shape makes these pants unbelievably beautiful.
Kim Shui
Sheer Green Mesh Dress
Perfect for a seamless transition from day into night, this sheer dress can serve as a lightweight swimsuit cover-up and as a dramatic outfit for an evening on the town.
Sienna Li
Untitled
While none of Sienna Li’s pieces are up for sale yet, we will be daydreaming of these skirts, where flowers meet fabric.
Sienna Li
Untitled
With the use of different textures and fabrics, a little white dress becomes incredibly elegant and elevated into fairy territory.
Edited by Kieryn Alexander