Paris Fashion Week SS22 Recap
Design by Grace Han
Post-COVID era, the fashion world is itching to move back in person. For some designers, it means the continuation of their reign over the market, and for others, a step away from the stressful 24-hour demand of the industry. The everyday consumer is eager to finally leave their house and move away from the sameness of days-old sweatpants. Many brands have responded, and we see designers stepping up to create glamour and imagination in an international environment that is finally ready for it.
Schiaparelli SS22
Since 2019, Daniel Roseberry’s interpretation of surrealism has kept the spirit of Schiaparelli alive. The brand has a history of asking identity shaping questions through chaotic times with its artistic choices such as the current socio-political environment of today. Roseberry’s commitment to answering those questions through his garments has led to the continuation and development of Elsa’s “crazy chic” iconography, and once again rears its head in his SS22.
Roseberry’s “David Lynch Holiday” inspiration is apparent through the course of the video. With maximalist accessories displaying facial features such as noses or teeth clinging to bags and jewelry, Roseberry leans into the concept of the displaced body by also creating full golden breastplate molds to be worn as tops. He also remakes the “Bone Dress” of 1939 by reimagining it into a modernized white counterpart. This collection also holds in it an ode to Schiaparelli with the models styled in face-shaped turbans similar to the ones she wore, and the running motif of stripes in the clothing meant to be a representation of Elsa’s idiosyncratic personality.
The classic cuts and tailoring of the garments make this collection wearable and familiar territory for its customers, while the absurdity of it creates a narrative of “vulgarity with charm,” as Elsa herself is described. Its willingness to redefine the character of elegance in a shocking manner is what makes the house exciting and unique. Ultimately, Schiaparelli’s goal of creating an alternative to other couture brands is coming to fruition in Daniel’s expert execution of fit, and fantastical creations.
Thebe Magugu ,“Genealogy”
From being a rising star in the industry to producing consistently creative and well-made clothing, Thebe Magugu showcases the concept of cultural intimacy in the experiences of his South African heritage. The brand seeks to present a simultaneously timeless and novel image that presents new ways for men and women to live their everyday lives.
For his SS22 show, Genealogy, Magugu was inspired heavily by the memories of his life when he was a child. His presentation of the collection was formatted as a split-screen video explanation, featuring his Mother and Aunt on one side, and a showcase of the clothing on the other. Flipping through pictures with them was a sweet recall to the loved ones in his life, and a clever way to bring attention to garment details that may have been otherwise overlooked through a screen.
The clothes were inspired by a family photo collection Magugu had been browsing, and so seem to be “fragments in time” of those past moments. The influence of the bygone brings in touches from earlier decades, such as colorful two-piece sets featuring a square shoulder and nipped waist, as well as skirts made up of slim-pleated fabrics that moved with the wearer. He also brings attention to South African tradition by use of headscarves and prints of his family in place of Shweshwe African iconography. As always, his soft logo peeks out unobtrusively from various garments and accessories.
This collection captures the timeless essence of fashion with its modernization of more traditional clothing and simultaneously raises questions about the role of community in culture. Its sentimentality and homestead-focused nature are a comfort in the volume of the international market.
Courrèges SS22
The ‘60s are back, brought by the Courrèges team. Taking place at the Bairs De Vincennes, Nicolas De Felice emphasized his take on the brand’s clean cuts and shapes, while incorporating current and future trends into the silhouettes. De Felice had his models walking to the sound of a stadium along the white-painted grass in an attempt to contrast the atmosphere of festival-goers and the bygone moments of space-age fashion.
The collection opened with clean-cut ponchos in different shapes, which harkened back to his imagery of an “outdoor party” of festival attendees. The uncluttered tailoring continued through the show, reflecting De Felice’s background in engineering and the methodical approach he uses in his creation. Models stride along the grass in carefully constructed trapeze dresses buttoned up the front and high-waisted pants that flare out at the upper thigh.
Even with retro influences, however, the clothing was styled with streetwear elements such as baseball caps and dangling leather knot-earrings. Sportswear-inspired jackets and shirts edged their way into the collection, along with daring cutouts in various forms. With the addition of details such as sheer-ribbed pants, cropped t-shirts, and the use of fabrics like latex, De Felice is still dressing the modern woman, even in his ‘60s and ‘70s festival narrative.
Saint Laurent SS22
Saint Laurent has a strong DNA of innovation. With an elegant and sexy take on womenswear, the brand was one of the first to adopt the concept of making high-end clothes on a larger scale. From the ‘60s with Yves’ new silhouette, to now, at the end of 2021, YSL has kept their vision of glamorized edginess alive.
In a live show for the first time since the pandemic, the SS22 collection from Anthony Vaccarello was all we expected and more. Instead of spectacular natural settings like those displayed online with his COVID catwalks, this runway was set in Paris against the display of the Eiffel Tower. Vaccarello said that this particular line drew inspiration from the French and Spanish designer, Paloma Picasso. He wanted to capture her laissez toughness and electrifying presence.
The models paced through the damp pavement to the background of cool mysterious light, styled with Picasso’s trademark red lips, and nonchalant attitude. The motif of a clutch bag tucked into trousers in several looks also recalled a time when she would do just that. Masculine tailoring in jackets and suits made their way down the runway in blacks, whites, and pops of vibrant color. Vaccarello’s emphasis on well-fitted jackets and garments was a direct reaction to the stylization of the ill-fitting blazer on social media - though he still plays into the trend of comfortable androgyny by showcasing the relationship between the traditionally masculine and feminine cuts of his clothes. There was also an emphasis on other fabrics which are not traditionally accepted as public daytime-dress, such as beautifully beaded embroidery with nothing underneath, or the use of fabrics like nylon and spandex in body-hugging suits.
While the collection was mysterious with an edgy-retro charm, its fitted cuts and chic accessories create a character of sleek regality, with a cool and effortless charm.
Chanel SS22
Virginie Viard’s SS22 collection was a tongue and cheek recreation of the 80’s and 90’s zeitgeist. Chanel is known for pioneering chic silhouettes in an assortment of comfortable fabrics like tweed or jerseys. Coco Chanel herself began designing in reaction to the restrictive garments of the 19th century to create a slimmer and more boy-ish look for the everyday woman. In the 90s, Chanel was reborn as a brand for younger audiences; the youthful designs contrast with a more traditional consumer base. Since then, like other fashion mogul houses, Chanel has moved away from the glitz and the glam of that decade.
Viard, however, wanted to evoke the fashion frenzy of the era. She wanted to “recapture the emotion” of the times she experienced as a youth. With this show, gone were the models casually sulking down the runway with their been-there-done-that aura. Instead, they flounced to the end to meet excited photographers, and coyly flirt with the camera in 90s-Esque glory - all to George Micheals, “Freedom\!’90” track.
The garments themselves were very reminiscent of Lagerfeld’s iconic styles. They recalled his underwear-as-outerwear creations, with the first looks being high cut black-and-white swimwear, moving into tighter fitting silhouettes with sportier influences. The cuts brought back a glamourized androgyny in glitzy sequins and metallic materials, with more revealing elements like plunging necklines and tiny shorts. Of course, the double C logo, Chanel quilted flap bags, and tweedy fabrics made an appearance; but in a fresh, trendy way that would appeal to Chanel’s new and young audience.
The sensationalism and drama of earlier years were apparent in Viard’s cheeky set-up and vintage-inspired styles, and in a time where the world is readjusting post international lockdowns, the impact of such excitement left a much-needed zeal in the air.
Our Favorite Looks
Chanel
Black and White two piece bathing suit.
This two-piece bathing suit reminds us of earlier decades with its higher-waisted bottoms, while still remaining modern and glamorous; a perfect choice for a trip to the oceanfront with friends.
Chanel
3 Piece coral set in tweed.
With no collar and a long, slim cut, the jacket is similar to the garments Coco herself was making. Paired with a bloomer-length short and cropped top, this knit set is both comfortable and bears signature Chanel style.
Chanel
Long pink tweed vest with bolero jacket.
As always, Chanel-does-tweed is still an innovative look. This brightly colored vest and bolero jacket is something you can wear year-round - whether with small pants or full trousers.
Schiaparelli
Long ecru fitted dress with three-dimensional skeleton bones quilting.
This dress is a reimagining of Elsa Schiaparelli’s “Bone Dress” from the 1939 collection and has quilting hovering where the rib and hip bones would be.
Schiaparelli
Structured black bodysuit with golden abdominal plate.
This look features a resin plate which can be worn as its own top, with a rhinestone ball piercing at the navel. The bodysuit in combination with the element of the golden abdomen creates a reference to the focus on the elegance of the body.
Schiaparelli
Cotton dress with Schiaparelli motifs lined with black calfskin sides.
This lacework dress features the signature Schiaparelli face, and calfskin held together with brass studs. The belt is also calfskin and plays on the maximalist body theme with brass ear and teeth buckles.
Thebe Magugu
Deconstructed blue and tan trench coat.
This off-the-shoulder coat dress can be worn functionally as an outer garment by pulling up the neckline to cover the shoulders, or in its own dress-like outfit.
Thebe Magugu
Paisley-patterned dresses in pink and green.
This is a knee-length length dress pleated from the waist down in a fun paisley print. It features cutouts around the shoulders, and the fabric in the skirt is split to reveal pleating in solid color.
Thebe Magugu
Purple flared mini dress with long peplum sleeves.
This dress takes inspiration from earlier decades - specifically the 80s with its puff sleeves and high flared waist. It also features an iconographic print from the Shweshwe tradition.
Courrèges
Black Halter Maxi dress with patent and ribbed texture.
The combined use of a maxi silhouette with long slits cut in the skirt references the free-flowing nature of festival garments, with the more utilitarian, patent leather halter-bodice also recalls the space-age thinking escapism of the collection.
Courrèges
Halter trapeze dress in black and green stripes.
In diagonal black and white stripes, this trapeze dress references 60’s mod culture and incorporates ease of movement with its sportier fabric.
Courrèges
Tailored black leather trench coat.
The long matte leather coat is perfect for between-season temperatures, and ties in with the outdoor, festival-like atmosphere theme.
St. Laurent
Blue trouser with cropped fitted blazer and black top.
If you’re looking for “French-girl chic,” this is it, but glamorized. Wide shoulders and cropped silhouette feminize the otherwise masculine garment, and pair well with bother trousers, and casual jeans.
St. Laurent
Orange mini dress with wide shoulder.
This dress is short and bright without being vulgar. With its emphasized shoulders and 3-quarter sleeve, you can’t help but think of 80’s elegance.
St. Laurent
Black tailored skirt-suit with gold button detailing.
A perfect example of Picasso’s effect. The beautifully tailored and gold embellished suit jacket is chic and charismatic.
Edited by Kieryn Alexander
